We have been feverishly sailing to arrive in Leros by Friday, July 21 to put the boat “on the hard,” only to be told we cannot be accommodated until Monday, July 24th. The disheartening fact was a break down in communication over the date. If we had reread our emails, we would have caught the error, remained in Ios at anchor for a few more days, and would not have had to combat the winds. So much for looking forward of being off the boat and to my reservation at the beach side Sayara Resort, complete with television, air conditioning, rooftop pool, and more. Oh, well.
Making the best out of the situation, we decided to explore Leros properly. The first thing I noticed was that colorful buildings had replaced the stark, iconic white and blue Greek homes while the dismal brown earth has been cheerfully replaced with beautiful green foliage! The village reminded me more of the Italian coastline with an art Deco feel.
We later learned that there was a large Italian concentration in Leros during World War II. Apparently, Mussolini invested money into Leros hoping to make it home base for his imperial ambitions. Several grand villas, broad streets, apartment blocks, and even a market hall are still intact today. Leros had also once been a leper colony, an internment camp for political prisoners, and an asylum for “untreatables.”
(07/22) We rented a car today and drove around the rest of the island. This is the first time we have been in a car since leaving the US in April! As usual, the European streets were narrow and curvy with the locals zipping around with ease.
The backside of the island was a true delight. Stunning, in fact. We stumbled upon several small villages, amazing tavernas, the port of Agia Marina, and remnants of the war including tanks, barracks, and tunnels. The beaches were either sandy or pebbly, somewhat crowded, with the shimmying water a crisp shade of light blue. Did you know the further east you travel, the more saline is in the water? The water is still cold for my liking.
After the war, the town was renamed Lakki and left untouched for decades. Thankfully, the islanders love their land and the area is making a slow come back. Geographically close to Turkey, Leros is a destination worth visiting.
