Leaving Greece, 09/14-09/17, 2023

(09/14) We have left idyllic Milos, sailing for roughly ten hours to an anchorage by the town of Lefki. The day was uneventful, the waters a warm, salty blue. The days are not as long as they have been; sunrise is a bit later and sunset is around 7:45 PM. The sky is black by 8:00 PM.

(09/15 – 09/16) It is a frantic hunt for fuel that lands us in Gytheio, the home town of the grandpa of Rich’s friend, Castas. This small fishing village, with its dark vibrant green landscapes, was a nice surprise as we continued our voyage in the Peloponnese waters. To me, the welcoming village lent more of an Italian flare than a Greek one in its waterside appearance.

With a full tank of diesel, we decided to spend the night on the quay. A healthy walk was much needed as well as provisioning in preparation for an upcoming long, overnight passage to Italy. Provisioning in Greece has been the toughest due to the fact Google translate does not always work correctly. Sometimes you may purchase something very unexpected; I bought bok choy that sure looked like romaine lettuce to me! I like bok choy.

After relishing in yet another traditional Greek dinner (usually served with tzatziki and lamb), we relaxed in the cockpit, and set our sights on what is to follow.

(09/16) The past several days have been long, dull, and uneventful; including today. Either there is too much wind and swell or not enough. We are sailing these long days to ensure of our arrival in Gibraltar mid-November where Rich will meet a crew to assist him in sailing across the Pacific home. We are not sure yet where they will finish the passage, but Rich still has some time to figure out that part of the equation.

After sailing/motoring another full day, we are on a quay in Zakynthos, our last stop in the Ionian Sea. Here, we have refueled and filled spare gas cans, stocked up on a few more provisions, then wandered beside the sandy beaches and onto the cobblestone walks. This well known summer resort is also the home to the famous Shipwreck Cove, reportedly one of the most picturesque places in all of Greece.

(09/17) After a filling breakfast and coming to proper terms with the coast guard, we are ready to leave Greece, heading towards Sicily, Italy.

Just a note on some interesting food notes: omelettes are served with a green salad and a roll, scrambled eggs with chopped tomatoes is a popular dish, and avocado toast topped with mushrooms, spinach, and a poached egg is a “must have.” All very mouth-watering. Due to the shortage of olive oil, it is not readily available on tables at meal time.

Tyzatziki – a dip or sauce with strained yogurt, cucumbers, garlic, olive oil, and sometimes fresh dill or mint served with warmed pita bread.

Saganaki – any one of variety of dishes prepared in a small frying pan, best known as an appetizer of fried cheese.

Souvlaki – a Greek fast food consisting of small pieces of meat and sometimes vegetables grilled on a skewer, like a kabob.

Well, we left Greece around noon and ready ourselves for the task of a 39 hour passage, I guess.

Overall, the passage was a smooth one; compared to those in the past where we encountered squalls and hail. With cooperating winds, we were able to sail longer than thought, meaning we were able to conserved fuel and enjoy the sounds of the sea.

Sailing at night was eerily quiet, yet relaxing. And the stars! I wish I knew more about astronomy. Supposedly, constellations vary depending on the hemisphere; all I could do was gasp at the amount of brilliant, bright flames glistening in the sky. It looked as if a preschooler took a black piece of construction paper, applied a light film of glue, and then threw a handful of silver glitter to see what would stick. A perfect project!