(05/06) We have left the soft, sherbet colored homes behind to begin our explorations of the vivid, colorful Cinque Terrre. Our first stop was the village of Riomaggiore. The village of Riomaggiore is the largest of the villages and the first in Cinque Terre when traveling north from La Spezia, so it’s the most crowded. The bright stone houses with slate roofs appear to be stacked on top of each other, the harbor is filled with traditional fishing boats.

Walking along Via Colombo, the main street in Riomaggiore, has enabled us to stroll through the town, along the cliff sides, and down to a pebbly beach filled with sun bathers and sea frolickers. Vendors here are plentiful, offering focaccia, gelato, and other enticing delicacies. We did enjoy an afternoon at the famous “A Pie de Ma.” This must see eatery, perched at the top of a cliff, offers stunning views of the town, the beach, or out to the aqua blue Mediterranean sea.

The photos above are from Riomaggiore.

After roaming the streets of Riomaggiore, we boarded the train to the next village over, Manarola. Some consider Manarola to be the oldest of the towns in Cinque Terre with the church San Lorenzo as its cornerstone, perhaps dating from 1338 and other Gothic churches. It is the second smallest village and the most popular.

Manarola is known for its fishing and wine making, winding narrow streets filled with fishing boats (dragged onto dry land due to rough seas) and hiking trails like the Via dell’Amore (Love’s Trail) from Riomaggiore to Manarola. Cafes are plentiful, serving pizza, local wines like “sciacchetra,” and Ligurian pasta. We were not able to dine at the restaurant “Nessun Dorma,” another supposedly must see. The place is so popular, it has its own app that you can download to be put on a waiting list; there were 152 folks ahead of us or a three hour plus wait; we didn’t wait! “Nessun Dorma,” is similar to “A Pie de Ma”: a cafe practically hanging off the mountainside, offering stunning views, and creative dishes.

The streets here, besides being very tapered, are steep and lead to even thinner alleyways. The town harbor was crowded with swimmers, sunbathers, and cliff divers. By the looks of the bathers floating so effortlessly, this cerulean water must be extremely salty. And, of course, I am always enamored by the flowers and trees and their fragrances. Vines just weave themselves into an extensive web covered with flowers, fruits, or vegetables. The lemons are so large in size they look plastic! In fact, since the lemon harvest is so abundant, the town offers an iced lemonade/vodka drink that is extremely popular. We, instead, have been enjoying the local gin; I was afraid the aforementioned beverage would be too sweet. Our adventurous day ended back in Levanto with Chianti and a fabulous Italian dinner.

The photos below are from Manarola.

(05/07) In keeping with our daily six mile a day walking routine, we set out for the village of Vernazza. This village is classified as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. This is true with the colorful Ligurian houses, clear vibrant waters, and sandy beach. Like the other villages, its piazza is lined with cafes and bars and the harbor is a natural meeting place for young and old. Steep terraced olive groves are said to produce the finest olive oil in the country.

Our first stop in the village was to “Ristorante Belforte” in an old castle. The unique setting was perfect for interesting dishes with breath taking views of the area. Once satiated, we aimlessly toured the town until we found the blue hiking path that connects the villages of Vernazza and Monterosso.

And hiking we did. The trail was a labyrinth meandering through vineyards and steep rocky paths, to flat footpaths that lead you up, down, and over constant changing terrain. We had seen folks in town outfitted in rock climbing garb, complete with hiking boots and poles, and now we know why. After a dusty 2.3 mile trek and an hour and half later, we were grateful to walk down the steps into Monterosso. A cocktail was calling our name!

Covered in dust and filth, 23,422 steps later, we went back to our hotel for a shower and a rest. Once recovered, we ate in town and ventured out to see the historic side of Levanto.

Here are pictures from our day.

(05/08) Off to Monterosso al Mare, by train! It has been a challenge to learn the train system, especially in another language (not French or English) in which everyone at every station gladly supplies you with conflicting information. (We spoke Italian forever ago, so the longer I am here the more I can understand. Speaking, not so much.) I am getting quite savvy using all the train/taxi apps to get us around the area and it is quite easy once it is mastered. Remember, do not ask anyone for assistance because they are as confused as you!

Anyway, it was a quick train ride to the neighboring town of Monterosso. Monterosso was my favorite, although Rich votes for them all since they all have a unique flavor unto themselves. In fact, we anchored one night right in this harbor and had passed all of Cinque Terre on the way to the marina. It is interesting to view the villages by sea and then tour by land; very different perspectives.

Monterosso is definitely the most laid back of the five villages, very family oriented, but not lacking in the aspects of history or food. The town is divided into two distinct parts: the old and the new. The two areas are divided by a single tunnel that will allow a very few cars into town. No vehicles, except emergency, were seen in the other villages. Because of that, your eye is not solely focused on the street.

We were not in Monterosso for an entire day, so we took advantage of the time and walked from Levanto to Bonassola. There is an old railway that has been converted into a walking/bike path between the two towns so that was an interesting experience. There are more places than ever to eat in Bonassola, specializing in hot focaccia, chocolate croissants, and ice cream. The best place to watch the sunset and enjoy a cocktail is at the start of the tunnel back to Levanto. It was perfect!

Our days in clear, sunny Cinque Terre were well spent. We enjoyed sampling the different cuisines and drinks of the region while immersing ourselves in the Italian lifestyle. The different flavored pesto was the best!

Things we did notice were that people both smoke and vape together, ferries are also a popular mode of transportation, and stores close midday for a few hours before reopening at dinner time. Parmesan cheese and cracked black pepper is not served with meals. The region is spotlessly clean; not even a cigarette stub to be found. There are no homeless or beggars. There are no billboards, neon lights, or graffiti. It was surely a pleasure to enjoy the fresh outdoors!