We are moored in Positano and I am thrilled! This adventure has long been on my bucket list and it has not disappointed. The area is populated with boats of all shapes and sizes, so a water taxi service is used to get you to the main town dock versus using a private dinghy. Our days here have been spent hiking up the many, many slight stairways or paths of the very vertical city, making sure to check off all the “must see” sights along our way.
We dined at the iconic restaurant Chez Black. The food, atmosphere, and service was terrific, we had fun conversations with other American couples, ending as an enjoyable evening. Chez Black stretches down Via del Brigantino, a main promenade, and is supposedly is the first restaurant in Positano. Salvatore Russo, aka “Mr. Black,” welcomed travelers and celebrities to his bay-side restaurant since opening after the war, perhaps in 1949. The design of the restaurant resembles that of a ship, complete with dark curved stained wood, hatches, and a large mermaid statue. Situated on the Spiaggia Grande, Chez Black is just a few steps from alley-ways brimming with boutiques and eateries and close to the 18th century church of Our Lady of Assumption. Incidentally, I think there are more Americans in Positano than Italians! (05/31)
The roads in Positano are even thinner than in other cities. The good thing is that the streets are one way with a slow speed limit. The steep roads in Sorrento are for two way, high speed traffic; there is no telling how to judge who has the right away or how to avoid the crazy cyclists! If you notice in the picture above, Rich (lime green sleeve) is practically sitting on the road. Diners can relax on one side of the street overlooking the water or on the other side of the road where there are more tables and the restaurant. Remarkably, the wait-staff controls the car/cafe atmosphere with the greatest of ease. The street in this area is a section of the “Path of the Gods” or a hike from the mountainous village of Bomerano, through Nocelle, ending in the seaside city of Positano.
After enjoying an “American breakfast” of a ham and cheese omelette, toast, and fruit for Rich, affogato for me, we set off to the shorelines of Puppetos and its beach club. Just a slight walk from Positano, the less strenuous path leads you to the bay of Fornillo beach with the more laid back, quiet seaside of Puppetos. The smaller, less populated beach was a pleasant change. Dinner at the Ristorante Casa Mele was a perfect ending of the day.
Pictures above: 1. The legendary Poseidon Hotel; very unimpressive. 2. A view of the Duomo and the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. 3. Foliage along the rocky path walk to Puppetos.
Our last day in Positano was spent relaxing with a beach-side luncheon followed by lounging on a chaise on the pebbly beach, something we hardly do. Later that afternoon, I was excited to purchase a pair of custom made sandals at Antica Positano, founded in 1950. The last time I had custom made shoes were pointe/toe shoes all those years ago when I took ballet lessons! At dusk, we roamed over to the Miramere Hotel, indulged in a sensational dinner at La Scalinatella, sounds of classical music filling the air. Crisp, crystal clear weather, breathtaking sights, mouth watering foods, new shoes…all was right with the Positano world (06/01)!